After two days in Kilrush we set off for Limerick, the setting of Frank McCourt’s memoir/novel “Angela’s Ashes.” On the bus we were treated to a DVD of stand up comedians including Tommy Tiernan, Ireland’s most famous comedian. If you think American comedians are raunchy and lewd, I highly recommend a taste of Mr. Tiernan’s hilarity which kept us in stitches the whole way. In between jokes our driver pointed out various plots of land along the way identified as “faerie mounds,” where developers would not build homes based on superstition. The Celtic connection to ancient mythology especially in modern times remains a rather remarkable phenomenon. As we entered the city, we witnessed how the Emerald Isle is a land of great contradiction: despite centuries of poverty even before the Potato Famine, Ireland is now one of the wealthiest European countries due to a recent economic boom. But even with the onset of newfound prosperity and modernization, Ireland has not lost its unique soul setting the nation apart from the rest of the world. When strolling through Limerick we saw such illustrations of the dualistic identity such as pubs full of people drinking Guinness while talking on cell phones. The city its self is not that distinct from any other large city except for the Irish flavor in the accents and older architecture. Though mainly commercial and industrial, Limerick is home to many beautiful cathedrals and buildings dating back hundreds of years. But I honestly would not return to this city; it’s filthy, crowded not to mention very expensive, and crossing the street is taking your life into your own hands because I swear the drivers aim for pedestrians while barreling down the narrow streets. But the drivers give the wrong impression of the people here—everyone we encountered was friendly and eager to give us directions or even just chat with us. The key redeeming quality of Limerick is the shopping; whether you’re looking for a generic Celtic knot keychain or a genuine Aran sweater, Limerick has it all. The bad news is that goods are very expensive, and with the exchange rate on the Euro, prices are even steeper. For the Irish city experience, I recommend sticking with Dublin and Galway. |
