Two days later we set out for Inis Mor, but had to return to the mainland to catch a boat to the larger island. Fortunately the boat was larger and no one lost their Irish Curry along the way. Home to the world’s smallest church, Inis Mor has much of the same natural charm as Oirr, but is a good deal larger with slightly more in the way of entertainment. A good half of the gift shops are genuine Aran sweater stores, but there are plenty of other souvenir goodies that don’t cost an arm and a leg. The hostels also tend to be “cozy” but clean with kitchen facilities (the best meal we ate out of the whole trip was a spaghetti dinner we made ourselves). In the morning we rented bikes where the shop owner explicitly explained that we better not crash because the closest hospital was a three hour trip away, and they of course didn’t provide helmets. Feeling safe and secure, we rode off in separate directions. Two minutes on the road and I couldn’t take it—the seat was so painful that I walked my bike the rest of the way which was fine by me because it allowed time for a leisurely ogling of the absolutely ethereal view. If you go to Ireland, do not miss this slice of faerie land. Yet even out in the middle of the island I managed to find an internet connection at the visitors’ center, albeit prehistorically slow. In the evening we saw a musical called “Ragu,” a modern interpretations of Celtic music set to traditional models. Though well staged, the production reminded me a bit too much of a touristy and pre-packaged Riverdance, not the authentic sound of the pubs where musicians played until they passed out. And Inis Mor has no shortage of the latter variety.
Map and Photos for Across Ireland 
