From Galway we boarded a ferry to the Aran Islands, first to the island of Inis Oirr (pronounced “in-ish eer, meaning little island) and then Inis Mor (pronounced “in-isheer” meaning bigger island). The ferry ride was a grueling hour of trying hold down Irish curry through choppy waters in small boat that felt like it would capsize any second, kind of like river rafting in a Dixie cup. On several occasions I thought I was going to vomit, the worse was when I went completely pale and came close to collapsing, but made it outside just in time to get some air. When I returned to my seat a couple of passengers offered me a shot of whiskey for sea sickness. I refused and instead curled up in a fetal position until we made it to shore. But looking back, the whiskey probably would have helped given the intimate knowledge of the Irish regarding both sea faring and drinking. As if nearly losing “lunch” wasn’t bad enough, upon docking we found that our luggage was completely soaked the waves splashing onto the deck. We dragged our soaking bags all the way to the Radharc na Mara (meaning “vision of the sea”) hostel where we bunked about five to a room which with bags and all, left not an iota of walking space. We used every inch of free wall space to dry out our drenched clothes and belongings—the whole room looked like a duffel bag exploded and the contents had just stuck to the walls. Too small for group travel but ideal for the solo or pair of travelers, Radharc is a lovely family owned hostel with a shared kitchen and living room which to me epitomized the Irish hostel-hopping experience is all about: a warm and friendly place where you get a chance to interact with fellow travelers as well as locals. At the dinner hall we met a couple of musicians who stayed for free in exchange for performing at night, which we learned can be a legitimate lifestyle for entertainers (such a practices illustrates the presence of music in Irish culture, as well as the very different attitude in the United States.). And as luck would have it, the top bohdron (Irish drum) players in the world were convening in Inis Oirr that week! In the evenings we were treated to the delight of world class musicians playing in small pubs all night long. Standing outside the pub to get some air between songs, it dawned on me one of the reasons for such a lively tradition: it keeps you warm at night! The Aran Islands are an epicenter of traditional Celtic culture; only natives and their spouses are allowed to live there and must take a test proving their proficiency in Irish Gaelic. For those interested in knitting and textiles, you can take classes in the ancient traditions of Aran sewing which is an intricate and beautiful art form with a history of its own. One morning we got a fresh taste of culture: when enquiring as to when a shop opened, we learned that the shopkeeper had a hangover and would open it when he woke up as was the case for the rest of the establishments on the island. Inis Oirr is a great place to get away from civilization for a few days. The Aran islands are a great location for female travelers as well seeing that they are quite safe at all hours (the police from the mainland visit every couple of weeks to have a pint and chat with the locals) Transcendental and peaceful, once outside the small villages you’ll run into maybe one or two cars a day, and more likely a horse drawn carriage. But because it’s so remote and rural, after awhile you may become a trifle restless. Like most of Ireland, Oirr is relatively flat making it an ideal walking destination where you can also find bikes for hire. During the day we explored the whole island on foot seeing that the entirety of the rocky landscape spans sonly about four miles square with a population of 300 (like most of Ireland the sheep far outnumber the people). But big things come in small packages; with brilliant green pastures set against the crystal clear Atlantic Ocean, the island is arguably one of the most beautiful places in the world. At the top is a small castle locals claim to be haunted. We climbed to the top and could see the coastline of the mainland which was absolutely spectacular as well as the myriad stone walls which found all over western Ireland. The walls bear witness to hundreds of years of history—the sturdy piles of stones mark the personal territories of the Aran princes. The beaches are also something special: a rocky coast means no sand to get stuck in your shoes and the isolated location means you basically get the jewel of an island all to yourself. But chilly temperature aside, the sun is still harsh so be sure to bring plenty of sunscreen as there is little shade. |
