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Guernica Travel Guide

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Currency
Euro
Language
Spanish; Catalan, Valencian, Basque and Galician dialects
Time Zone
(GMT+01) Western Europe / Paris

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Introduction to Guernica Edit Section - Guernica Travel Guide - Hotels & Restaurants
 
A German official approached Pablo Picasso, he was standing in front of his enormous, black and white magna opus, Guernica.  It was the 1937 world's fair, the Spanish Civil War was raging, and the German Wehrmacht was gaining strength.  "Did you do this?"  He said, motioning with obvious disgust at the giant mural, Picasso's shocking portrayal of the destruction of the Basque village of Guernica by Hitler's Luftwaffe Condor Legion.  The iconic image is jagged, grotesque, man and animal alike scream into oblivious violence, a horse is broken, a spear puncturing its flank, a bare breasted mother roars into the sky, her dead baby cradled in slack arms.   The German repeated himself,  his voice growing louder,  "Excuse me, did you do this?" He demanded.  Picasso turned, smiled politely, and answered, "no sir, you did." 

It is unfortunate that Guernica may be forever remembered as the victim of a fascist nightmare, a nazi blitzkrieg, tactical practice.  Long before the bombs, the city was the historical home of the Basque parliament, a Biscayan body that assembled under a sacred oak,  the Gernikako Arbalo (Tree of Guernica).  This site was so important because throughout Iberian history, the Basques enjoyed a steady, sovereign respect.  Maps of the Roman empire engulf Europe, yet a small dot in the Pyrenees marks unconquered Basque lands.  In his 44 year illustrious reign, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charlemagne, never once lost a battle, except when his rear guard was flanked and decimated crossing the Pyrenees.  The Spanish monarchs would come to Guernica and kneel at the tree, paying respect to the autonomy of the Basque people.  Such an anti-national, separate Basque identity enraged Franco, and it was thus that the city became a target and an example of those that did not bow down to State, Church, and (king.)

Today, the city, though small, is well worth a visit.  A short trip from nearby Bilbao, or Donostia (San Sebastian) will bring you high into the lush green Pyrenees mountains.  Check out the petrified former tree of Guernica, then spend time reading the Basques proud history in the compact- but well appointed museum.  Wash down history with a cup of txakoli, (pronounced chocoli), a Basque white wine, and sample the tasty jamon, and fresh bacalao pinxtos (tapas).
 
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